Metal lathe installation




















Either plan crack locations using a control joint or expansion joint or take the cracks where they happen in the cementitious membrane.

Structural cracks can be a huge source of water intrusion when they occur. It is far better to have a bunch of straight and symmetrical lines than to have random structural cracks. They are also considered control joints and are one-piece joints. The advantage to this shape is that the down turning shoulder bites into the stucco and as a result the crack described in the last paragraph is less likely to occur or be exposed.

The plasterer must force stucco under this upside down "J" shape in order for this bead to perform optimally. These products are also generally available with a continuous piece of tape masking over the groove making clean out of the joint less tedious and more likely to be performed as required. Two-piece expansion joints formed with back-to-back double casing beads with a flexible membrane mounted behind the joint also moves in two planes, and when caulked utilizing a backer rod and a quality silicone caulking material, it is generally much more water resistant than the standard mechanical two piece.

Three-piece joints, though rarely used, do have a place in stucco construction and each should be approached based on their intended use and application. These would include such items as inside and outside corners, and soffit vent expansions. These joints deal with minor movement and minor stress on the stucco membrane. The control joint was designed to deal with initial stucco shrinkage, minor thermal movement and some minor stresses imparted on the stucco membrane. How much movement are we talking about?

If it moves more than that due to settlement, seismic movement, wood shrinkage or any other reason, you have the wrong bead. A one-piece joint is limited in the amount of movement it can handle and it can only move in one plane. The two- and three-piece joints are usually employed where there are larger amounts of movement as explained in the preceding paragraph. The typical two-piece can move in two planes, in and out, up and down, and it can be expected to deal with a greater degree of movement.

When a joint is nailed, screwed or stapled in place it is impossible for it to function as it is designed. My lathe is going to have some battle scars after the installation of the DRO. For the Y axis I mounted the scale directly to the bed. It should be noted the bed is a casting so it has a slight draft angle. I used a single washer as a spacer and a carpenter level for the initial layout.

I 3d printed a slotted block to take up the gap between the plate and the sensor. I put a matching angle in the slotted 3d block. My understanding is the G and Gg are very similar in form, fit, and function.

The GG is the gunsmith model and has a few more upscale features, but it is my assumption the concepts presented here should work on the Gg model as well. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Other risks include a work piece kicking back at the operator, slip-and-fall accidents due to coolant spilled on the floor, and parts or materials, such as chuck keys or unsecured work pieces, being projected at high speed and striking the operator and nearby employees.

There have been lathe accidents recorded due to something as minor as the flashing effect of fluorescent light that can make a spinning lathe appear to have stopped. Research shows there are numerous factors that can lead to a lathe accident.

At the top of the list are malfunctions due to defective machinery, the failure to install proper safeguarding, mistakes due to the lack of employee training, poor lighting, and not providing proper PPE. What does a metal lathe do? A manual metal lathe is a precision turning machine that rotates a metal rod or irregular-shaped material while a tool cuts into the material at a preset position. This is essential in avoiding injury. Examples of lathe machine safety precautions include not wearing loose clothing, rings and other jewelry, keeping long hair pulled back while operating a lathe and keeping hands and fingers away from rotating parts.

As mentioned earlier, these practices are important because rotating parts will catch loose or dangling items and pull the operator into the machine, causing serious injuries or death. OSHA makes it the responsibility of the employer to provide training that addresses safe start-up and shutdown as well as proper machine operation, speed adjustments and work piece placement, control and support.

Employers must also equip lathe operators with proper PPE that includes safety glasses or other suitable eye protection, earplugs, protective footwear, and close-fitting clothing. Instead, OSHA considers lathes to be a Section 5 of this standard contains the safeguarding requirements on metalworking lathes.

This standard addresses such issues as requirements for operator controls, emergency-stop devices, disconnect switches, motor starters, and protective interlocks. Swinging a shield from its protective position will break its electrical connection and cut the power, forcing a quick coast down.

A lathe has several points of operation that present hazards. Each requires specialized safeguarding equipment. Below we address each of these hazards and what can be done to avoid accidents.

Safeguarding the Chuck The chuck area is by far the most dangerous area on a lathe. An important point to take care of would be to make sure the tip of the tool is in close proximity to the tool holder. This will help to reduce tool damage. Otherwise, it might affect the entire process and ruin the workpiece.

The tool will be in the center, while the ruler will be positioned vertically. Similarly, the tool will be up higher when the ruler tilts towards the front and lower when the ruler tilts backward.

In order to fix the height of the tool, adjust the height wheel to bring it back to the preferred position. Take a light facing cut. The accurate and precise set up should create a smooth facing cut without any defects. If facing cut was all you intended to do, then your job was done there. However, if you wish to do some more, you have to take the tool out and set it up again.

The set will preserve all the settings that you made previously! Repeat the same process for all the tools!



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